My experience on the Gravel Sarthe Tour

Introducing the Gravel Sarthe Tour

The first edition of the Gravel Sarthe Tour took place on Ascension weekend 2025. Four circuits ranging from 160 to 590km were proposed. The event was designed to be inclusive , with a briefing translated into sign language for the 17 deaf and mute participants, and a paired route on Sunday for the visually impaired. I thought it was really cool!

For my part, I benefited from an arranged route of 430km to cover as many points of interest as possible in the 2.5 days available to me, but the official circuits offer more respite time.

What I thought of it

Theorganization was perfect and the route superb, alternating roads and quiet paths where you could pedal in complete safety while discovering the rich heritage of the Sarthe region. The refreshments were generous and varied, and the volunteers always warm and cheerful, even after long days of welcoming us. In short, an event I can wholeheartedly recommend!

Which bike for the Gravel Sarthe Tour?

I set off on the event with a monster gravel bike featuring a 100mm fork and 2.2-inch tires. The bike was clearly over-equipped for the course, but I wanted to test it before taking part in the Tour Divide less than 2 weeks later. To move forward more efficiently, I recommend setting off with a traditional gravel bike fitted with 38-45mm tires. Even if the terrain is generally rolling, there are a few passages that are a little shakier.

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Departure from Téloché

Departure is from Téloché, at the Citadelle des Anges: a former lime kiln converted into a cultural venue, which hosts concerts and shows under its dome. To reach this original starting point, Passionné Mans Gravel offers a twenty-kilometer trail from Le Mans train station. A lovely prelude to the adventure: pretty trails, architectural and artistic discoveries, and bucolic country roads.

I arrive in the late afternoon under a beautiful sun. Once I’ve taken my bike out of its bag and reassembled it, I pedal back to Téloché to pick up my tracker and a goodie bag filled with good local produce. I prefer this kind of useful, gourmet gift to the umpteenth oversized T-shirt destined to vegetate in a closet.

Then it’s time for the briefing, as volunteers and participants gather under the dome. After the safety rules have been spelled out, the volunteers take to the stage, bursting with energy and galvanized by AC/DC’s “Thunderstruck” at full volume. We applaud the team, enjoying the perfect acoustics of the hall.

Dinner is served under an arbour in a warm, relaxed atmosphere. A French variety singer enlivens the meal and, as the evening progresses, sings Gilbert Bécaud’s Nathalie, an unexpected wink that I take as an involuntary homage. The menu consists of fouées, regional bread rolls baked in a wood-fired oven, topped as desired with, of course, the inevitable rillettes du Mans, but also other flavors to be discovered. A cream puff rounds off the meal on a sweet note. Satisfied, I head back to the Planche Pinçon gîte for a good night’s sleep before setting off.

Day 1 – Téloché to Saint-Léonard-des-Bois

After a delicious breakfast of homemade jams, fresh eggs laid by the garden chickens and a variety of sweet and savoury dishes with my host Jacques, I return to the Citadelle des Anges where the start of the Gravel Sarthe Tour takes place at 8am. I set off alone on my personalized course, in the opposite direction to the 350km participants.

Le Château du Lude

The first highlight of the itinerary is the Château du Lude. Originally a medieval fortress, it has gradually been transformed into a family home, inhabited without interruption for over 250 years. Each facade features a different period in its history.

I first spot it in the distance, behind a herd of cows grazing peacefully. A contrast as charming as it is surprising. As I get closer, I admire its sculpted facades, but it’s partly hidden behind a rampart. Unfortunately, I don’t have time to visit the gardens. I buy a snack and savor some delicious pastries from an artisan bakery before rejoining the greenway.

La Flèche

As I drive through the town, I think back to my days at the Prytanée National Militaire de La Flèche. The banks of the Loir where we used to go running, the splendid Place Henri IV where we used to have drinks… Everything seems unchanged, and yet I’m rediscovering this town of remarkable architectural heritage with fresh eyes. However, I don’t see any brutions, the nickname for the Prytanée students, recognizable by their uniforms. Perhaps they’ve gone home for the long weekend.

Malicorne-sur-Sarthe

Malicorne is a major center of French earthenware art. The town is renowned for its openwork earthenware and has been awarded the “ville et métiers d’art” label. You can visit the Musée de la Faïence et de la Céramique to learn more about its history and manufacturing processes. From a public garden, you can see the color mill used by earthenware makers to break down the glazes and embellish their wares. The setting is delightful, and the building, though faded, retains its beautiful colored windows.

I’m cruising along the Vélobuissonnière when I feel a loss of grip in my rear tire. I notice a slow puncture. A group of a dozen cyclotourists stop to help me. While the 3 men set about changing my inner tube, I tell the women with amusement about my participation in ultras where I cross isolated mountains in total autonomy.

Another funny anecdote I learned on the way home: the famous Rustines factory is located in the region, in Chartre-sur-le-Loir!

The Plantagenet City of Le Mans

I reach the Gué de Maulny park , where walls and a giant cube painted by artists during the Festival Plein Champ take pride of place. Shortly afterwards, I arrive at the cité Plantagenêt, the historic heart of Le Mans. Built between the 3rd and 4th centuries, the old town is encircled by a fine Gallo-Roman wall that protected it for many centuries. Its half-timbered houses nestling in mazes of cobbled streets are regularly used as film sets.

Unfortunately, several punctures on the way delayed me and I didn’t have time to get lost. I did, however, catch a glimpse of the Gothic cathedral of St. Julien , standing proudly above the buildings. I leave the city, pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to cycle through.

I then crossed the Sarthe in a fun and original way: a chain ferry located in a park north of Le Mans. All you have to do is get on the boat and pull on the chain to get to the other bank.

Fresnay-sur-Sarthe

I reach Fresnay-sur-Sarthe in the evening. At the gateway to the Alpes Mancelles, this ancient fortified town is an inviting place to stroll. I’m amazed by the liveliness of the Place Thiers, where a pretty fountain topped by a lion is enthroned. The remains of the medieval castle dominate the city from its rocky promontory, but access to it was closed on my arrival, so I didn’t linger. Leaving the town via the Bourgneuf district, I walk along the old weavers’ houses, a reminder of the prosperous textile past for which Fresnay was famous in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Saint-Léonard-des-Bois

Night has fallen by the time I reach the village of Saint-Léonard-des-Bois, whose stone houses can be made out by the light of the street lamps. I don’t stop and climb straight up to the Maison du Gasseau, where the team has kindly waited for me despite my late arrival. I wolf down with appetite a delicious dinner based on local produce that has been carefully set aside for me. The setting is magnificent, and I’m a little disappointed not to be able to enjoy it for longer. I make myself comfortable in the room and give myself a well-deserved night’s sleep. Another long day awaits me the next day, with slightly fewer kilometers but more climbing.

Day 2 – Saint Léonard-des-Bois to Bessé-sur-Braye

The Alpes Mancelles

After a hearty and tasty breakfast at the Maison du Gasseau, I set off again, well rested, to begin the hilly landscape of the Alpes Mancelles. This natural setting is rich in biodiversity. From the heights, I can see Saint-Léonard-des-Bois, nestling in the valley.

A keen hill climber, I savor this portion of the course before finally catching up with other participants at CP3. The atmosphere is warm, the refreshments generous, and the volunteers as smiling as ever. I take advantage of the foot pump to re-inflate my tires, which were well under-inflated after the previous day’s adventures.

The Perseigne Forest

I then plunge into the Perseigne forest, a dazzling green setting. Covering more than 5,000 hectares, it is part of the Normandie-Maine Regional Nature Park, a UNESCO Geopark for its rich natural and geological heritage. It’s an ideal playground for outdoor activities, especially cycling. From wide, rolling gravel trails to playful single tracks, there’s something for everyone.

I reach the Belvédère de Perseigne in the heart of the forest. At an altitude of 340m, it’s the highest point in the Sarthe. Unfortunately, access to the observation tower is closed today, so I won’t be taking advantage of its 360-degree panoramic view of the canopy and surrounding landscape, and will be content to contemplate the frescoes painted on the building.

Mamers

I leave the forest and arrive in the pretty town of Mamers under a blazing sun. I make a welcome stop at Place Carnot, in the shade of the 19th-century grain market. Opposite me, the splendid Italian-style theater catches the eye with its elegant facade.

La Ferté-Bernard

La Ferté-Bernard, founded in 1025, celebrates a thousand years of history this year. This medieval and Renaissance town, nicknamed the Venice of the West, boasts a rich and well-preserved heritage. The Gothic church of Notre-Dame des Marais sits majestically in the center of the village.

I take a gourmet break at L’Instant Chocolat, an artisanal chocolate shop, where I enjoy a delicious ice cream to cool off from the summer heat. I then leave the town center, passing through the superb porch of the Porte Saint-Julien, and skirt the La Ferté-Bernard lake , where tourists are lounging on the beach.

Château de Montmirail

Further on, I discover the medieval castle of Montmirail, dominating the surrounding countryside. The village spirals around the mound on which it is perched. Behind its flower-bedecked gates, I can only make out a fragment of the monument, which nonetheless hints at its full splendour.

Saint-Calais

The gateway to the Perche Sarthois region, Saint Calais is a peaceful Haussmann-style town. I first pass the imposing, richly decorated Halle aux grains, then walk along the quays of the Anille, from where I can see the Notre Dame church. Small garden pavilions called gloriettes line the river, which once fed tanneries, mills and numerous washhouses. The town is charming and pleasant to stroll around.

The Château de Courtanvaux

A steep slope that turns into a dirt road leads me to the impressive Château de Courtanvaux, legacy of the de Montesquiou-Fezensac family, ancestors of the legendary musketeer d’Artagnan. Nestled in the heart of a vast park, this historic monument with its rich past and eclectic architecture is well worth an in-depth visit. A great excuse to come back to the department! I walk through its wooded park along an emerald-green lake to Bessé-sur-Braye, my overnight stop.

Overnight in a dome in Bessé-sur-Braye

I set up my belongings in a dome that will serve as my room for the night, then head off for a shower. Hungry, I head for the establishment’s Indian restaurant, Le Safran. I’m first seated in a structure identical to the one I’ll be sleeping in, shared with two other particularly noisy tables. With the sound resonating loudly and my ears ringing, I quickly ask to be moved to a quieter outdoor table. The service, visibly overworked, is slow to arrive: I’ll have to wait over two hours before being served. Fortunately, the dishes are tasty.

In terms of accommodation, I was a little disappointed. I’d dreamed of stargazing from my bed, but the bubble ‘s canopy is completely opaque. Only a transparent side wall gives a glimpse of the outside, a far cry from the immersive experience I’d imagined.

Day 3 – Bessé-sur-Braye to Téloché

The Loir Valley

I’m up at the crack of dawn to start my last day, shorter than the previous ones as I have an early afternoon train to catch. The route begins along the Loir, on a quiet greenway: a long straight stretch of perfectly flat gravel. I’ve only got fifteen kilometers to go before I reach CP5, the last checkpoint on the route. As always, the table is overflowing with victuals, but I set my sights on some delicious home-made crêpes.

Before setting off again, I make myself a takeaway sandwich with an assortment of homemade vegetarian rillettes. The route becomes hilly and takes me through vineyards, home to two AOC wines: Jasnières and Coteaux-du-Loir.

The Bercé forest

Before coming full circle, I drive through the Bercé forest, one of the natural jewels of the Sarthe region. Classified as an exceptional forest, it is renowned for the quality of its Jupilles oaks, used in particular for cooperage. The estate is criss-crossed by wide forest roads from which numerous trails lead, making it an ideal place for hiking, horse riding, mountain biking and gravelling.

Back to the Citadelle of Angels

I return to my starting point, which I had left two days earlier, via small back roads. I pick up the bag I had left with the organizers during the tour, enjoy a sweet and savoury crêpe with other participants, and exchange a few words with the volunteers before cycling back to Le Mans station, happy with my weekend of sport, encounters and discoveries.