Changing a bicycle chain – Complete step-by-step tutorial + video

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial

When should you change the channel?

Over the course of many kilometers, the rivets or “pins” on a chain wear out and create slack in each link, giving the impression that the chain is getting longer.

To check its state of wear, use a chain wear indicator, or if you don’t have one, don’t hesitate to visit a bike shop, which will be able to check it for you in a matter of seconds.

The fewer gears your bike has, the better it will tolerate a worn chain. The recommendations are as follows:

• 1 or 2 speeds: change chain if elongation is 1%.
• from 3 to 10 speeds: change chain if elongation is 0.75%.
• 11 speeds and over: replace chain if elongation is 0.5%.

If you only change your chain when it’s very worn, the new chain may not work with your old cassette, so you’ll have to change two parts instead of one. Since cassettes are more expensive than chains, you’ll save money by changing your chain as soon as it starts to wear out.

Chain life is around 3,000 km. This will be less if you often ride in mud or dust, more if you only ride on the road and regularly change gear while riding.

If your cassette or chainrings are worn, change the chain at the same time as the rest of the drivetrain.

The equipment

• Chain wear indicator
• A new compatible chain: choose a chain that matches the number of gears on your bike.
• Chain drift: indispensable for fitting a new chain. Some multi-tools have one.
• Quick link pliers: useful if your chain has a quick link.
• Optional: you can choose to use a Wipperman Connex link instead of the one supplied with your chain, or buy a chain of the same brand, supplied with the same link, which has the advantage of being easy to fit and remove by hand, and is reusable.

Remove old chain

If your chain has a quick link, use the pliers to open it easily. Otherwise, use a chain puller to push the rivet off a link and free the chain. Slide it into the derailleur and remove it completely.

Installing the new chain

Set your gears on the cassette’s small sprocket and small chainring. Pass the chain through the front and rear derailleurs in these same gears, respecting the correct routing.

A new chain is generally too long. This means removing links so that the derailleur is just under tension on the small chainring/small sprocket combination – in other words, the configuration where the chain covers the least distance.

Take care:

• A new chain is supplied with a quick-release fas tener that will form one of the chain’s outer links; a rivet already in the final link, ready to be inserted; or an independent rivet. This will influence where to shorten the chain: on an inner or outer link.
• Some chains are directional and have lettering on the outside only.
• Don ‘t rely on the length of the old chain: it may not have been optimally adjusted and may have lengthened over time. If you want to use it as a yardstick, you’ll need to count the links.

Once installed, check that the quick-release is fully engaged. You can either use the quick-release clamp or press down on the pedals while holding the rear wheel still.

If you’ve used a rivet to connect the chain, it will probably be too stiff at the joint. Place your thumbs on the adjacent links and push, pull, massage the chain until it’s supple.

Turn the pedals to check that the chain is moving properly, and shift through all your gears.

How do you make a chain last?

A well-maintained chain lasts longer. Remember to :

• Lubricate the chain, but not too much: a chain that is too greasy will be covered with particles that will wear down the metal through friction.
• Clean the chain regularly .
• Shift gears gently, never forcibly.
• Avoid crossing the chain: say goodbye to the small sprocket/small chainring and large sprocket/large chainring combinations.

By following these steps carefully, you’ll extend the life of your transmission and save money!