Anaïs Pellat-Finet – Women and mountaineering with Lead the Climb

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Presentation

Welcome, Anaïs! Would you like to introduce yourself?

Thank you for welcoming me to the podcast! My name is Anaïs, I’m 33 years old. My base camp is between the Vercors and Chamonix, because I can never decide between the two. At the moment, I’m often in my truck. I started mountaineering when I was 26, so it wasn’t that long ago. I also worked for a long time as a sales rep for a company that sells climbing walls.

So you’ve been climbing for a long time?

No, I didn’ t like climbing at all. The sport scared me, and I didn’t understand the point of spending hours climbing one pitch after another. What I did like was going into the mountains. But I soon realized that if I wanted to do more technical routes and feel more at ease, I had to train in climbing. In the end, I really got the taste for it two years ago. As I’ve progressed, I’ve discovered all the facets of this sport, which you don’t necessarily know about when you’re just starting out.

And what sport did you play before you started?

I used to do a lot of hiking. I loved going off on walks and venturing off on my own with my tent and my stove. I already had a taste for hiking off the beaten track. I often spent my time looking at IGN maps and searching for less-frequented passages. It was while exploring steeper trails that I got the idea of doing mountain work. I also used to ski a lot. But eventually I got fed up with the resorts and their crowds. That’s when I discovered ski touring, at the age of 26. I started training and that’s how I got into mountaineering.

First steps in mountaineering

We need you to tell us how you discovered mountaineering, how you got involved and what your first contact with the discipline was!

When I was 25, I was working part-time in a large company. The works council offered self-sufficiency training courses in the mountains at a very affordable price. The guide who organized these courses was a fellow engineer, which made the experience all the more enjoyable. I started taking part in these courses through the company.

For the record, at the time, my parents thought I was just dreaming of climbing Mont Blanc (which, like a lot of people, I was too). For my 25th birthday, they gave me money to buy a guidebook to climb Mont-Blanc. Except they made the mistake of giving the money directly to me, instead of to the guide. I used the money to finance several training courses offered by the company’s works council. I told myself that one day I’d go to Mont-Blanc. Since then, I’ve never stopped climbing.

You used the money for something mountain-related after all!

Exactly, yes, so in the end it was a good investment.

What attracted you to mountaineering as opposed to other sports? You were already hiking, so you were used to going into the mountains. But why mountaineering?

I was drawn to the technical side of mountaineering. Seeing ice axes, crampons, ropes, people tying knots, setting up abseils… It all fascinated me. This methodology with the equipment and the efficiency it demands, I found fascinating.

Then there was the idea of being in places that seemed inaccessible. And then there’s the roped party spirit. For me, mountaineering is above all about being a team: reaching the summit together, but above all coming down together, which is even better. This human aspect is really strong. You get to know other people very quickly, because in the mountains, there’s no place to hide. A lot of barriers come down, and humanly speaking, I find it very enriching.

The place of women

Mountaineering is still perceived as a rather masculine environment. What do you think about the place of women in this discipline? And have you noticed any changes since you started? How do you see things in the future?

When I started out in my company, there were at least three women for every three men in our groups. But this seemed to me to be specific to this professional environment. As I became more integrated into the mountaineering world, I realized that it was very masculine, with a strong presence of men and a culture focused on performance and strength.

I’ve never felt this to be a hindrance, but there’s a tendency, especially when you’re just starting out, to let the men manage the rope, thinking they’re more experienced or stronger, even if this isn’t always true. When I left the company and no longer had access to its EC, I realized how difficult it was to learn about the mountains if you had no family or companions in the business, or no one to pass on the basics.

I looked for ways to train myself: there was the CAF, but learning with large groups didn’t suit me. I have trouble with groups of ten or more. It was while searching the Internet that I discovered Lead the Climb. This association offers training courses in self-sufficiency in the mountains, exclusively for women and led by women guides. I took a few courses, in particular to fill in my ice climbing gaps and deepen my mountaineering knowledge, given that I already had a good grounding.

It was there that I really discovered women in mountaineering. I also became aware of the low representation of women among mountain guides – only 2%. The professional world remains complicated for women, because of the mental barriers we sometimes put up ourselves. I think that preconceived ideas about women in the mountains, such as that they’re not capable, are changing. Today, I find that men are generally very open and welcoming towards women in the mountains.

Lead the Climb is invaluable because it enables us to learn from each other and overcome these barriers. You gain confidence, you allow yourself to go ahead in a roped party, to analyze a situation or make decisions. When you return to a mixed environment, you know that you’ re capable, that you can do it. This has given me the confidence to take the lead or give my opinion in a roped party, even one made up of men. In the end, the idea remains the same: build on each other’s strengths to reach the summit together and come back down serenely.

The Lead the Climb association and the Lead the Climb team project

So did this association really help you enormously in your training?

Not just for me! Lead the Climb is an association with 350 members, offering 90 training days a year in all mountain disciplines: ski touring, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing and many more. This represents 230 days in the field, enabling 400 women to get out into the mountains every year, which is a huge number. The association works with 25 female guides and 30 male back-up guides. And all this is supported by 10 volunteers since 2018, including a core group of 4-5 people who run it like a real small business.

The association is doing extremely well and has even been able to launch women’s mountaineering groups, as seen in other CAF clubs.

That’s what I was going to talk to you about. So you’re part of the first promotion of the Team Lead the Climb project. Can you explain what it is, its objectives and how it works?

We owe this group to Manon, one of our volunteers. She was keen to join a women’s group and wondered whether she should leave Lead the Climb to find one elsewhere. In the end, she decided to launch a group directly within the association. She organized selections, and the result was Team Lead the Climb was born.

The aim is to form a group of women, usually between 4 and 8 participants. In our class, there were six to start with, then one had to leave, so we continued with five. The program was spread over two years, with training supervised by mountain guides Maud and Bégo. We did a number of courses where we went over the basics: setting belays, installing belay clamps, progressing on long routes, etc. We also tried our hand at other climbing techniques. We also touched on other aspects such as skiing and mixed (snow and ice).

Between courses, we had set ourselves the obligation of going out on our own, without the guides, and in a complete group. This was part of the “contract” we had given ourselves, because in a course with two guides for five participants, mountain outings are often limited. Learning times are long, schedules are doubled, and it’s difficult to tackle complex routes. These independent outings have enabled us to make enormous progress, to push our limits little by little, and to achieve some great races together at the end of these two years.

Despite a few unforeseen events (such as courses cancelled due to the weather, or a widespread gastrointestinal illness within the team), we really learned to be efficient. We were able to absorb as much information as possible during the courses and apply it all independently. These regular outings also strengthened our bonds, as we didn’t necessarily have any other rope-mates around us. This group was a real opportunity for all of us, and that’s what enabled us to achieve some incredible things together.

And what did it mean to you to be part of this pioneering team, the first class after all?

At the time, I also applied for the GFHM, the Groupe Féminin de Haute Montagne. It was the very first women’s group to be created, based on the same principle. When I was taken on at Lead the Climb, I didn’t take part in the GFHM selections, because I told myself that what really motivated me was building a project from scratch. I love creating projects, and this was the perfect opportunity to build something in our own image.

At first, we didn’t know each other, but I found it exciting to create a new community, especially via Instagram, and motivate other girls to get started. Lead the Climb has a great team of very active volunteers, which has enabled us to partner with The North Face for three years. They regularly organize events in Chamonix and worked with Lead the Climb to include our teams in their events. The deal was also to inspire and motivate other women to come and discover the mountains. Over the three years, we met a lot of athletes, guides and got to explore the mountains of the Chamonix valley.

This partnership also made us aware of the way in which the media and mountain films focus mainly on pro athletes or guides, whilewe see very few, if any, amateur women. This made us want to continue to run our Instagram page and produce videos. And, little by little, the idea of making a film was born.

The birth of High inspiration

Definitely a movie! And how did you go about making it?

There are five of us in the team: Marion, Aurore, Bérénice, Manon and me. Manon and I were the ones most involved in communication and videos, so we were very keen to make this film. We didn’t impose anything on the others: we simply asked them if they agreed to be filmed and to talk a little in front of the camera. Marion, who doesn’t really like it, agreed to be filmed, but without interviews. Each of them respected the limits of the others, and this enabled us to launch this project calmly, collecting images without knowing at the outset what we would do with them.

At the end of the two-year training course, it is customary for these mountaineering groups to set up a project in the mountains. We chose to go to Switzerland to climb three emblematic 4000-meter peaks, all on our own, without a guide, unlike other groups. As well as representing a financial challenge, we felt it would be a real test of our skills.

We left in July 2023, and documented the expedition by filming our two weeks there. We then entrusted the editing to Quentin, a friend of Manon’s, who immediately bought into our story. He picked up a 500-gig hard drive of images and really took the time to help us structure our story.

Quentin also came to join us for two days in Switzerland, during a run-in outing to Arolla, to advise us on image capture. During the expedition, we did everything ourselves: shooting, sound, all the while climbing. We wanted a professional-quality film, not an amateur montage with mediocre sound and shaky images. So we invested in equipment like tie microphones, camera microphones, a quality GoPro, and I also used my drone.

We also thought about interviews and questions to ask to enrich the film, even though we didn’t have a story written in advance. The aim was to capture our adventure in a natural and authentic way. Once we had the images, the editing work was colossal, but well worth it.

And what’s the name of this film, and where can we see it?

The film is called High Inspiration. It is currently being shown at festivals. It was shown at the Rencontres Ciné-Montagne in Grenoble last November and at the IF3 in Chamonix in December. After that, we’ll see. We’ve entered the film in other festivals and are waiting to hear back. Making a film is one thing, but distributing it is another. You have to enter a lot of festivals, which means a lot of competition and long forms to fill in. That’s something we weren’t aware of before embarking on this project.

Moreover, this film exists largely thanks to our community on social networks. We didn’t have the budget to travel to Switzerland or edit the film. So we launched a crowdfunding campaign on Ulule, in the absence of sponsors willing to fully support us. We were pleasantly surprised by the feedback we received from our followers. Of course, our families and friends were involved, but many of the contributors were people we didn’t know directly. This really touched us and motivated us even more to produce a quality film and show it at festivals.

Training with Team Lead the Climb

Let’s take a look back at the two years of training you underwent thanks to Team Lead the Climb. Can you tell us a bit about how it went? You talked about courses and group outings. How did you start and finish the program? And in terms of hourly volume, what was it like? Maybe this could help other women to get their bearings.

It’s been a very intense two years. You really have to be ready to put 200% into the project, otherwise it doesn’t work. When we started, our first course was on the basics with Bégo, who was alone to supervise six participants. We went over all the basics: reeving, roping on snow, fall arrest, belays, etc., all in one day. The next day, we set off on a mountaineering course, but didn’t reach the summit. We were very slow and totally inefficient. We turned back before we’d even really started the climb, having simply completed the approach.

After that, we organized outings between ourselves. We chose accessible peaks and planned everything ourselves. The guides never chewed up our work. They validated our choices, but all the preparation was up to us : analyzing the weather, calling the refuges, researching the conditions, deciding on the routes. It took an enormous amount of time, well beyond the weekend. A week before a course, we were already gathering information, exchanging information on WhatsApp, organizing videoconferences and making decisions.

This investment was very time-consuming. We would repeat the process on our outings with each other, learning from our mistakes. We also realized that going to the mountains was exhausting, not least because of the whole preparation phase. When the weather was favorable, it was a chance, but if it changed, we had to multiply alternative plans, which made the work even longer.

The first phases of training were particularly intense. I remember that in January, February and March of the first year, there was something going on almost every two weeks. It was very dense, especially in spring and summer, when there were a lot of outings. We set ourselves a fast pace: with a six-month Doodle schedule, we had to coordinate our availabilities with those of the guides, which was a real headache.

In terms of volume, this represented around twenty days of training, consisting of five weekends with guides, another five among ourselves, and personal outings. Our whole lifestyle was already geared towards the mountains, so it suited us. We fully accepted this pace and gave it our all.

This year, Team Lead the Climb launched a second promotion with a smaller group. There are half as many courses with the guides, which means that women with children or who are less available can take part without having to spend every fortnight in the mountains. It’s a great initiative.

There is also another group, Alpijeunes, which follows a similar formula with around four courses a year. This program is aimed at young women under the age of 25. This year, thanks to these initiatives, the association has three active teams.

Do all the women taking part in this project already have previous experience, like you with your internships via your CE, or are there absolute beginners?

We haven ‘t designed this program for absolute beginners. We’ve chosen to target women who already have a good knowledge of the sport. For example, we require a certain ease of skiing, especially on 35-40 degree slopes. It’s not steep, strictly speaking, but you need to be comfortable in these conditions. It’s not a question of skiing style, but rather the ability to ski down with a heavy pack in sometimes difficult snow. If a participant is not at ease on a black run, it would become very complicated, if only to manage access during a course.

In climbing, we require a level equivalent to 6a for indoor climbing. Otherwise, if participants lack confidence in climbing or refuse to lead, it could quickly complicate courses and outings. When we started, we already had these prerequisites. We also ask for a short list of climbs completed by the candidates to assess their experience. This also helps us to understand their motivations. But a solid grounding is essential.

Is the idea also to form a homogeneous group so that everyone can learn at the same pace?

Yes and no. We try to put together homogeneous groups, but sometimes surprises happen during the selection process. Some candidates are extremely modest in their applications and, in the end, turn out to be very experienced. For example, some climb at an impressive level or have already completed highly technical races, in reversible or even in lead. Others, on the other hand, have less experience, are still hesitant to climb lead or don’t feel totally at ease.

This creates gaps in levels, but the group gets organized around these differences. For us, the gaps were less marked than in the current promotions, but it worked well. It’s great, because it encourages everyone to progress in their own way. The less experienced participants evolve technically, while the stronger ones develop other skills, such as human management, which is essential in the mountains. It also reinforces their spirit of caring and mutual support.

We had, for example, participants who were not very comfortable on snow or in mixed terrain, but they made the effort to train, especially before our outings in Switzerland where snow was predominant. As for me, I wasn’t particularly good at climbing, but I took it seriously so as not to be the group’s ball and chain in this discipline. Others took up running to improve their cardio and avoid lagging behind on the approach walks. Everyone worked on their own weaknesses, which enabled everyone to progress together.

Just because a participant has an excellent technical level doesn’t necessarily mean she’s in the physical condition to keep up with other aspects. It’s a very positive dynamic. The most important thing is to cultivate goodwill and avoid competition.

Today, women’s mountaineering has come a long way, with an increasing number of very strong women. This makes it all the more important to focus on mutual support and to be happy about the successes of others. It’s an essential value, both on and off the slopes. It’s also what we wanted to show in the film, for those who see it before it goes live on YouTube in a few months’ time. The film reflects the way we work as a group, centred on mutual help and support.

One of the project’s fondest memories

That’s important. What has been your fondest memory over the past two years?

Over the past two years, many vivid memories stand out, but some, with hindsight, take on a special flavor. One adventure that often comes to mind is our ascent of the couloir nord-nord-ouest des Vents, in the Taillefer massif. This small massif, nestled between Belledonne and Chartreuse, may seem modest, but it offers some great adventures.

It all started during a training course with our guides, whom I’d like to salute for their professionalism. They took us into conditions that were already demanding under normal circumstances, and this time the challenge was enormous. At the time, there were six of us in the group, accompanied by two guides, forming a roped party of eight.

We first climbed up to a sheepfold, our packs already quite heavy as we had to collect wood along the way. After spending the night there, we did a bit of ice climbing around the lake to warm up. The next morning, at the crack of dawn – it has to be said that in December, the days are very short – we began the already arduous approach on skis.

The approach through the shrubbery was a real pain, and then we had to climb back up to the foot of the chute in sealskin. We had our touring skis on our backs, ski boots on our feet, but no suitable mountaineering boots. Some of us, like Marion and Aurore, had never been on ice before. Fortunately, they were able to manage, as they were already good climbers.

Once we reached the goulotte, we set off on four pitches of ice, followed by 400 metres of snowy slope. The initial idea was to ski down a couloir back to the sheepfold. However, not everything went according to plan.

Of course, we blew the schedule. By nightfall, we were still at the top of the couloir, and the snow had refrozen. One of the roped parties ahead of us had sent up a plug of snow, and we were soaked. As the ski descent was too exposed, we had to walk back down. In the end, our skis were useless. Exhausted, we returned late to the sheepfold and decided to spend a second night there, even though we hadn’t planned to. It was then that the adventure took an unexpected turn.

When we arrived, four men who were already at the sheepfold had been alerted to our arrival by the previous roped party. They had lit lamps to guide us through the night and, to top it all off, they had prepared a meal for us. Pasta with tomato sauce was waiting for us, a real feast after such a trying day, especially as we hadn’t planned anything for a second evening.

On top of all that, there were still some unforeseen circumstances. My ski boot had broken, preventing me from switching to ski mode, forcing me to walk with an unsteady foot and a huge pack on my back. The refuge was damp, with water dripping from the ceiling. It was also the birthday of one of our guides, Bego or Maud, I’m not sure. A real obstacle course, but memories that will stay with us forever!

What an experience!

Yes, there have been plenty, but I think that’s part of what you have to accept in these bands.

Challenges as a mountaineer

That’s for sure. What has been your greatest challenge as a mountaineer so far?

I find that the biggest challenge is finding reliable people to go out in the mountains. On every outing, you have to deal with the weather and availability, and often leave without being totally sure of what you’re going to find. Frankly, the mountains are a constant challenge. The upstream preparation phase is particularly demanding. There are so many factors beyond our control: the human partners, their availability or motivation, the weather that can change at the last minute, or the terrain conditions. It’s all a real headache.

For example, this summer I set myself a big challenge: to climb the Noire de Petraie via the South Ridge. It’s a very long route, with 1200 meters of climbing. You often sleep on the face, so you need to plan a bivouac. I was with someone who climbs very well, but who doesn’t practice mountain climbing. It was a gamble, but we knew a lot about climbing, so we went for it.

So, how did it go?

Great! Well, except that it was the first weekend of high pressure in spring. We weren’t alone: there were about fifteen roped parties on this route, some of them going all the way to Mont-Blanc via the integral of Petraie. It wasn’t easy to find so many of us on such a long, technical route. There was a lot of pressure: should we let the others pass? If you do, you lose time, but if you don’t, you risk slowing everyone else down. It can take 2-3 hours to find the right rhythm.

Finally, we managed to make the race. It was incredible. We slept on the ridge, summited the next day, then spent five hours descending and another three hours walking.

It looks strong already. Congratulations! It’s great to have learned to be so self-sufficient.

Thanks a lot! After all, it’s not the kind of outing I’d do every weekend, but once a year it’s a really great experience.

And has the autonomy you’ve gained through mountaineering also helped you in other aspects of your life, whether personal or professional?

It’s given me an enormous amount of self-confidence. Before, I was someone who lacked confidence, who tended to take a back seat to others and not assert myself too much, especially at work. This suited me, but I often felt incapable, without really knowing why. In the mountains, I discovered that I could do difficult things at my own level. It allowed me to surpass myself and realize that I was capable of much more than I thought.

Since then, I’ve changed the way I see things in my life. For example, I no longer tolerate being disrespected at work or being paid poorly for what I do. I know what I’m worth. It’s also given me the courage to start freelancing on projects I enjoy. It’s scary, but it’s a bit like going up a mountain: sometimes you’re going up with only a few meters of visibility. You don’t always know where it’s going to lead, but you have to keep a cool head and look for solutions.

What are your next mountaineering goals?

I’d like to do more mixed races, mixing snow, ice and rock. For me, this is the pinnacle of mountaineering. In summer, it’s easier, because you only have to deal with rock conditions, but in winter, it’s different. Snow and ice are unpredictable, and everything can change. An easy route can become very difficult, and vice versa, depending on the conditions.

I also dream of climbing certain peaks, although I’m not necessarily “driven” by any one in particular. One that appeals to me is the Schreikorn in Switzerland. It’s not a well-known 4000, but it’s wild and isolated, with a long approach. It’s this wild side that appeals to me, and I think it will be my goal for next summer.

What advice would you give to a woman who wants to take up mountaineering but is hesitating?

You have to go step by step and not be afraid. Training is essential, whether with clubs like the CAF, associations like Lead the Climb or Girls to the Top, or with a guide. These courses enable you to learn the basics and train in suitable conditions.

Then start with very easy runs. Even if they look simple on paper, they allow you to learn crucial skills, such as finding your way, being efficient, using protection… You progress by practicing, not by reading mountaineering books on your sofa.

Thank you for your testimonial and these inspiring tips!

Thank you very much. I hope this will inspire other women to take up mountain climbing.

Follow Anaïs and Lead the Climb

• Anaïs’ Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/anadventures_/
• Team Lead the Climb account: https://www.instagram.com/team_lead_the_climb/
• Compte Lead the Climb: https://www.instagram.com/leadtheclimb/
• Association website: https://leadtheclimb.ffcam.fr/