Raconter l’histoire oubliée des femmes de l’alpinisme avec Stéphanie Agresti
In this interview, I interview Stéphanie Agresti, co-author with her husband Blaise Agresti of the book "Histoire de l'alpinisme au féminin" published by Glénat, which focuses on women in the history of mountaineering.
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Summary
Teacher and mountaineering enthusiast Stéphanie Agresti and her husband Blaise have written Une histoire de l’alpinisme au féminin, a tribute to the women who have left their mark on this discipline, often overshadowed by their male counterparts.
In this interview, she talks about the genesis of the book, the role of the pioneers and the challenges still facing women in the mountains today.
A mountain life shared with family
Based in Les Houches, in the Chamonix valley, Stéphanie lives surrounded by mountains. She enjoys ski-touring, climbing and walking, without defining herself as a mountaineer.
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“I love being outdoors, I love outdoor activities, but I dabble in everything without being excellent at any one discipline.”
Her husband, Blaise Agresti, a former member of the PGHM and mountain guide, introduced her to more technical activities.
Together, they share this passion with their children: “The mountains are a way of strengthening our family ties. It’s a great place to get together, exchange ideas and share special moments.
The desire to bring women out of the shadows
The idea for the book arose from the observation that, even in Chamonix, the Mecca of mountaineering, few people are familiar with the great female figures in this history.
“We’ve always thought that there was a form of injustice. These women have left their mark on history, but have remained invisible.”
The project is also a personal tribute: Blaise’s mother, featured on the book’s cover, climbed a 7,400-meter peak in Afghanistan in 1966, a feat for the time. While working on the book, Stéphanie and Blaise discovered a multitude of forgotten stories.
“We didn’t know where we were going, but the further we got, the more we told ourselves we absolutely had to do it.
Writing in two voices
The couple co-wrote the book, composed of independent chapters tracing the great eras of women’s mountaineering.
“We both had our favorites. Blaise said he couldn’t have written it without me, and I couldn’t have written it without him either.”
In addition to their historical research, this work has also given them food for thought about the place of women in the mountains and in their own relationship: “It was a wonderful adventure on two levels, both literary and personal.”
Two centuries of women’s mountaineering
The book retraces the milestones in this history.
The first, that of the pioneers of the 19th century, begins with Marie Paradis, the first woman to summit Mont-Blanc.
“It was a very masculine, almost warlike activity. These women rode with skirts, hemp ropes and inappropriate outfits.”
The First World War marked a turning point: women gained in autonomy, both in society and in the mountains. They formed their own roped parties and took the lead in ascents.
The 70s and 80s saw the emergence of major women’s Himalayan expeditions.
“It’s a time when they want to show they can do it, but pay a heavy price. There was no leniency for a woman who failed in the mountains: she was told she didn’t belong there.”
Even today, parity is far from a given, but women are forging their own path. “They’re no longer trying to look like men. They assume their choices, their styles and their values.
Inspirational figures
Among all the women featured in the book, Stéphanie cites her favorite: Nives Meroi, the Italian mountaineer who climbed all fourteen 8000 meters with her husband Romano Benet.
“They did it without oxygen, without porters, with incredible ethics. They’re the only mixed rope party to have done it together. They did it out of passion, without seeking glory.”
Obstacles past and present
Even if attitudes are changing, women still face obstacles : lack of funding, less media coverage, training that is still very much male-dominated.
“In France, certain issues are not addressed: maternity, female physiology at altitude… In the United States, it’s more open.”
She insists on the role that men can play: “Often, women pioneers were able to climb thanks to a father or brother who trusted them. Women must dare, but men must also make room for them.
A more introspective practice
Stéphanie has also observed a difference in the way people relate to the mountains:
“Women don’t go for the same reasons. The summit is not always the most important thing. They’re looking for self-knowledge, spirituality, the journey.”
She also stresses the strength of the collective : “The group aspect, the fact of being together, counts for a lot in the success of women’s projects.”
Daring mountains
Stéphanie is convinced that ifwomen’s mountaineering is to continue to gain in visibility, they must be encouraged to take the plunge.
“The mountains have a thousand facets. You have to believe it’s possible, learn, train, surround yourself.”
And a final word of advice:
“You have to believe in your dreams. It doesn’t matter what field you’re in, the important thing is to follow through on what you want to do. Why not the mountains, if that’s the dream that’s calling you?