Hiking in Norway’s Jotunheimen with Anne-Lise Collet

Updated on 2025-11-04

In this podcast episode, I welcome Anne-Lise Collet, who tells us about her hiking experience in Norway's Jotunheimen National Park.

Laurène Philippot

Laurène is the magazine's creator. An avid cyclist, hiker and trail runner, she's always keen to discover new places, especially in the mountains!

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Episode summary

Micronutritionist, naturopath and adventure enthusiast Anne-Lise Collethiked Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park with her family. She tells us about her itinerary, her practical advice and the precautions to be aware of when preparing a hike in this emblematic massif, between lakes, ridges and high peaks.

Discover Jotunheimen differently

The family first discovered the park on a dogsled trip. ” In December, we didn’t see much during the day, so we promised ourselves we’d come back in the summer,” explains Anne-Lise.

Located northwest of Oslo, Jotunheimen is easily accessible by bus from the capital – a four- to five-hour journey. Norwegian public transport is reliable and well thought-out, making it possible to travel without a car or plane.

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From Alsace, Anne-Lise and her family chose to make the entire journey by train and bus, a 24-hour door-to-door option: “It allows us to get into the journey while limiting our environmental impact.”

A tailor-made itinerary

Their tour lasted nine days, and was completed by a few days in Oslo, for a total of two weeks.

The route was designed using tools provided by DNT, the Norwegian tourism association and equivalent of the French Club alpin. The ut.no website enabled them to prepare the route, obtain GPX tracks and consult trail difficulty levels.

Two objectives guided their choice: the Besseggen ridge, famous for its spectacular line between two lakes, and the ascent of Galdhøpiggen, Norway’s highest peak (2469 m). “As we set off at the beginning of July, we chose to go through these places early, before the rush.”

Challenging weather

In summer, conditions remain unpredictable: rain, wind and sometimes snow. “We were often at altitudes of around 1,500 metres, with the weather changing rapidly. You have to remember that in Norway, you can add 1000 meters of altitude to have conditions equivalent to France.”

Anne-Lise’s advice: take your equipment seriously, even in summer. She recommends warm, waterproof clothing, gaiters, a Gore-Tex jacket and overtrousers, gloves and, for the more chilly, heaters. “I also carried light crampons just in case, although I didn’t use them.

Comfortable, well-designed refuges

Their trip was made without bivouacs, with nights spent in DNT refuges. “These are real mountain refuges, but with incredible comfort.

Hikers can choose between dormitories and rooms, with full board most of the time. The buffet breakfast also allows guests to prepare their own picnic lunch, a system based on trust. “It’s hearty, varied and there’s a lot less waste.

Even when it’s busy, it’s possible to sleep on site: refuges never refuse a hiker, even if it means sleeping in the common room.

Well-marked but technical trails

Beaconing is excellent, with red DNT T’s painted on the rocks and regular signs. The ut.no application also enables you to find your way around off-grid. But the terrain is highly technical: muddy passages, large rocks, scree and névés slow progress.

“We were going much slower than planned. We have to reduce the length of the stages if we want to arrive before 6 p.m.”

The routes are graded by color, from green to black, but Norwegian levels are more demanding than French standards: “Our reds were almost black. It’s best not to link too many difficult stages together.

Magnificent, ever-changing landscapes

Between fjords, lakes and rocky ridges, the landscapes of Jotunheimen are very different from the French Alps. Even in the rain, Anne-Lise finds a particular beauty in this Nordic ambience: “With bad weather, you enjoy the slightest ray of sunshine. The light is incredible.

One of his fondest memories is theascent of Galdhøpiggen in the snow: “On the way down, everyone slid down sitting down, like on a toboggan. It was fun and a lot less tiring!

Practical advice before you leave

Prepare your itinerary carefully and check with the DNT.
Anticipate the cost of your stay: Norway is expensive, especially for food and accommodation.
Make sure you’re well equipped, whatever the weather.
Don’t underestimate the technical nature of the trails and adjust the distances.
Book huts if possible, especially in July.

An experience to be repeated

Anne-Lise is already planning to return, either on foot or on cross-country skis.

“Norway is an extraordinary country, but you have to be well prepared, well equipped and have a small budget. With that, it’s an unforgettable adventure.”