Climbing and living with endometriosis with Svana Bjarnason

In this episode of the podcast La Sportive Outdoor, I welcomed French-Icelandic climber Svana Bjarnason to share her story about the disease that affects her: endometriosis.
Watch the video interview
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Episode summary
In this episode, Svana Bjarnason, a Franco-Icelandic climber on the international circuit, shares a rare testimonial: that of a top-level sportswoman confronted withendometriosis, a chronic illness that has turned her daily life, her relationship with sport and her mental health upside down. She traces her journey, from late diagnosis to surgery, through pain management, loneliness and the difficulty of getting clear answers.
His climbing career
Svana says she discovered climbing as a child, following in the footsteps of her mother and brothers. She didn’t particularly like the sport, but the competitions made her want to continue. At a very young age, she took part in a series of local and regional competitions, eventually joining the French youth team. Despite suffering an ankle injury a few weeks before an important event, she trained on one foot and qualified.
The following years were marked by several injuries that left her mentally exhausted. She lost the pleasure of competition and decided to stop. In Spain, she rediscovered her desire to climb. She then seized the opportunity to represent Iceland on the international circuit, with the aim of qualifying for the Olympics. She recounts a difficult transition from cliff to competition, a lot of work, great disappointment, then mental exhaustion before finding pleasure again, outside.
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Onset and worsening of pain
Since her first period, Svana has been suffering from severe pain, which is downplayed by those around her. Sexual intercourse is painful, but her gynecologist only refers to her “uterus shape”. After an unsuccessful abortion, her cycles become unbalanced and the pain becomes more and more frequent.
An episode on a plane marked a turning point: on a World Cup flight, she was in so much pain that she remained on the aisle floor, unable to move. “That’s when I said to myself: this isn’t normal.

Diagnosis: between minimization and the obstacle course
Her first gynecologist tells her it’s “nothing” and prescribes only painkillers. Svana herself requests an MRI. She is told she has “a little endometriosis”, which she feels is completely out of sync with her pain.
She then experienced daily crises. Those around her urged her to seek help elsewhere. A specialist trained in endometriosis finally made a precise diagnosis: severe deep endometriosis, with neuropathic and ligament damage. The previous MRI was not sufficient. This diagnosis relieved her: “I told myself I wasn’t crazy.
She reminds us of the essential point: pain does not depend on the size of the lesions. And despite the fact that one woman in ten is affected, the disease remains little-known.
Training and competing while living with pain
The year she attempted to qualify for the Olympics was an extremely difficult one: vomiting, pain, insomnia, repeated attacks. She sometimes climbs just after crying out in pain. She refuses opioid painkillers in competition because of their effects and anti-doping constraints.
Paradoxically, sport helps her from time to time : the endorphins soothe her for a while. But she also has to deal with incomprehension: “People say: ‘You say you’re sick, but now you’re climbing.

Select operation
Two specialists give her opposing opinions: one advises against the operation, the other thinks it can really help her. This contradiction created months of doubt and psychological suffering. She describes a period when she felt like a “ghost”.
She eventually underwent surgery. The surgeon removed all the lesions, including a nodule that had doubled in size. The news of her success was a huge relief.
After the operation, most of her daily aches and pains diminished significantly. But she learns that she also has adenomyosis, identified during the operation, and will have to remain vigilant. She works with a psychologist to get out of the “dark tunnel” of the past year.

Conclusion
Svana insists on the importance of trusting one’s feelings and consulting trained specialists. And she repeats an essential phrase: “There’s nothing courageous about ignoring pain.”
Resources and links
Svana shares several useful resources that she uses on a daily basis:
– the Facebook group Endometriosis and adenomyosis
– the website La Belle et L’endo
– theEndoFrance directory
Here is also the link to his Instagram account

