What is the Torino-Nice Rally (TNR)?

The Torino-Nice Rally (TNR ) or Rallye Turin-Nice is not a race in the traditional sense of the word, but rather a bikepacking“epic” through the Alps. Created by James Olsen in 2016, this event rejects the spirit of competition, since there is no stopwatch, assistance or prize at the finish.

Instead, the aim is to cross the Franco-Italian Alps on your own, “embroidering” both sides of the border, following old military trails lined with abandoned forts and crossing mythical passes.

Each year, a date is set for a collective departure of the participants, which also raises funds for the Smart Shelter foundation… But the route is also very popular with cyclists looking for summer bikepacking, who allow themselves 1 to 2 weeks to cover this high-altitude alpine itinerary, which is relatively challenging in terms of altitude.

The route offers numerous alternatives so that each adventurer can compose the course of his or her dreams by varying the number of km, ground surfaces and technical difficulties.

The Torino-Nice Rally in figures: passes, altitude and terrain

Our itinerary allowed us to test our bikes on the varied and demanding terrain of the Torino-Nice rally:

• Passes climbed: More than 14 passes climbed.
• High-altitude roads: 2 mythical old unpaved high-altitude roads used
• Altitude: Between 0 m (Nice) and 2,744 m (Col Agnel).
• Terrain: 50% paved roads, 50% off-road (forest roads, gravel tracks, singletrack).
• Period: July 13 to 24 (ideal for avoiding snow at altitude and chilly temperatures in the tent).

The mythical passes and must-sees on the route

Here are the iconic passages that marked our adventure on the Torino-Nice rally:

• Colle delle Finestre: Famous for its tight switchbacks and gravel finish. Our 1st sporting challenge!

• Strada dell’Assietta: A spectacular ridge at over 2,000 m altitude. There’s no doubt about it: we’re in the mountains!

• Col de l’Izoard & la Casse déserte: Living up to their reputation…

• Colle del Preit & the Gardetta sector: A high-altitude plateau where marmots, bare peaks and immense panoramas come together… Probably our favourite sector of the Torino-Nice rally route!

• Via del Sale: A vertiginous high-mountain trail once used for salt trading. Too frequented by bikers for our taste, but offering incredible panoramas!

The Torino-Nice rally is also a fabulous gastronomic rally, with the tourton briançonnais (sweet or savory doughnut), the polenta concia (polenta with cheese) at the Rifugio Gardetta, the gargantuan dessert buffet at the refuge Napoléon under the Col de l’Izoard, the delicious Italian ice creams in the villages crossed and the specialties of Nice (Socca, Pissaladière, etc.) as the ultimate reward.) as the ultimate reward at the finish… An itinerary that satisfies both the stomach and the eyes, thanks to the beauty and diversity of its landscapes.

The detailed itinerary of the Torino-Nice Rally: my step-by-step account

From Turin to the Strada dell’Assietta (Days 1 to 3)

Day 1: Turin to Mollar

After a long morning on a FlixBus departing from Lyon, we arrive in the center of Turin. We pick up our brand-new gravels, which we had to “cram” into the luggage compartment with some trepidation, but phew! Not a scratch and the bikes are ready to roll for the start of our Torino-Nice rally.

We set up our panniers and quickly headed out of Turin in search of the countryside and greenery. The first few km are too urban, and the temperatures are a little sweltering… But the route is fairly flat, the warm-up is fairly gentle, and the ride through Parco La Mandria (north-west of Turin) is quite pleasant.

We then join the Stura di Lanzo valley before turning due south to climb the Stura di Viù valley.

The villages offer us their cool fountains, and some are in full swing preparing for summer festivities… In the village of Viù, we have 2 options:

• the ascent of Colle del Colombardo, renowned for its 18%+ unpaved slope, or
• that of Colle del Lys, which is much smoother and asphalted…

We chose the second alternative, which we felt was more suitable for a warm-up, and pitched our tent 13 km downhill, to tackle the pass in the cool of the morning.

Day 2: Mollar to Meana di Susa

Theascent to Colle del Lys goes like clockwork, despite the heavy bikes… It has to be said that it’s asphalted and only 1,314 m high… At this point in the route, we still don’t realize that this pass was just an “appetizer” 😉

After a beautiful descent (almost 1000 vertical drops) on a small tarmac road, we head due west into a valley floor along the Dora Riparia. We drive as far as the hamlet of Traduerivi, where we take a last breath and, above all, drink plenty of fresh water before tackling the famous Colle delle Finestre!

Around 1700 D+ await us… which we decide to spread over 2 days: the first 1000 meters to the bivouac and the rest the following day.

The climb is fairly easy, thanks to a small, gradual asphalt road that winds through the forest. Apart from the pain in the buttocks, the main drawback of this climb is the motorists who don’t hesitate to “push us into the tallu” (in the literal sense of the word, as my man ended up in the ravine hit by a Fiat Panda… :-/).

We pitch our tent at the foot of a forest house, where a fountain flows (perfect for our evening ablutions), exactly where the tarmac disappears to make way for the emblematic Col de Finestre track.

Day 3: Meana di Susa to Cesana Torinese

Off we go for the last 700 D+ to reach the pass : the temperatures are ideal, the morning light is still mild, the switchbacks are gradual so the gradient is manageable (especially with my gravel, which is equipped with a mountain bike transmission 😉 )… No motorists or bikers to smoke us out… Only a 3rd cyclist who catches up with us when we reach the pass: what a kick!

We take advantage of being on the Italian side of the border to enjoy an espresso on the terrace of a refuge before setting off on the famous Strada dell’Assietta. This spectacular military trail winds for over 30 kilometers along Italian ridges, almost exclusively above 2,000 meters altitude.

After a gourmet break at the rifugio Assietta Jack Canali, we continue along the ridge line before tumbling down to the ski resort of Sestriere.

Our last stop in the late afternoon, at the very end of this fantastic descent, is at the Cesana Torinese fountain. We pitch the tent just outside the village , as we don’t have the courage to tackle the climb again in the evening…

Briançon, Izoard and Queyras (days 4 to 6)

Day 4: Cesana Torinese to Briançon

It’s a short day’s pedaling to get to my cousin and her family’s lodgings, where we enjoy a wash, a good dinner and an ultra-comfortable XL mattress 🙂

The day’s climb begins in the first few km to Clavière and then Montgenèvre. The passage through an old tunnel open only to cyclists gives an original character to this pass climb, which ends in the sunshine on a café terrace with a buttered croissant :).

Then it’s just a matter of gliding along the asphalt road that winds between the Salettes & Dauphin forts to land in the magnificent Cité Vauban. The latter has not stolen its UNESCO World Heritage title! Its spectacular fortifications and steep streets, set on a cliff overlooking the confluence of Alpine valleys, are truly impressive.

Day 5: Briançon to Molines-en-Queyras

A memorable day at the Torino-Nice rally, as much for the scenery as for the joy of being with family… We set off toclimb the mythical Col d’Izoard.

So happy to be sharing time with my cousin, I can’t see the kilometers go by and we’re already on the terrace of the Napoléon refuge for lunch. Just a few more pedal strokes to reach the pass where we proudly pose as a family.

We then switch to a mineral descent through the Casse Déserte, an incredible 1200-meter D- slide. We enter the Queyras and discover all its architectural treasures with Château-Queyras & the string of hamlets of Molines-en-Queyras, each more charming than the last.

Galvanized by this perfect day, we push on to the very bottom of the valley, to isolate ourselves and take a nude dip in the Aigue Agnelle…

Day 6: Molines-en-Queyras to Rota d’Amont

We start out with the highest point of the route, Col Agnel (2,744 m), in our sights. The ascent is gentle, on a small, little-travelled secondary road, with an incredible view of Mont Viso.

The descent on the Italian side is on a winding “asphalt slide” through alpine meadows… 36 km to lose over 1700 metres in altitude, passing through alpine villages including the sublime Chianale.

A little invigorating Italian ice cream in Sampeyre before setting off again to tackle the Colle di Sampeyre: the altitude difference is certainly considerable (+1300 D+), but the tarmac mini road and alternating mist and sunshine make for a varied and rather fun climb…

When we reach the pass, we’re proud to have beaten our 1-day D+ record, but I have to admit I’m a bit drained… so when, on the descent to Stroppo, we pass a sign for a B&B, I jump off my bike to check availability.

Yippee, the owner of the Rota d’Amont is offering us a lovely room with a view and a cold beer after the shower to celebrate all those vertical drops!

From the Gardetta mountain pastures to the Via del Sale (Days 7 to 9)

Day 7: Rota d’Amont to Demonte

After discussion with our host, our objective for the day is quite clear: to reach the rifugio Gardetta for lunch, as their polenta seems to be a must ! We set off at full speed downhill towards Stroppo.

A few km on the valley floor road, and we’re soon back on the slope, from the village of Porte Marmora… The straighter the road gets, the more nature takes over, with the disappearance of tarmac and the return of the alpine pastures. From Colle del Preit onwards, the gravel track becomes technical and demanding, but so extraordinary!

After a gargantuan polenta, we set off again for the Gardetta sector, which is probably the most breathtaking part of this Torino-Nice rally: marmots, panoramic views, 4 pass crossings, mineral peaks, and alpine meadows follow one another on the 13 km of plateau that you’d wish was endless…

And to end the day on a high note, we pitch our tent just before Demonte, near a small stream, which attracts mosquitoes but also offers a refreshing “shower”!

Day 8: Demonte to Col de la Perle

We start the day with a short descent to Demonte and a good Italian coffee on the terrace of a bistro: the luxury of bivouacking in Italy 🙂

The day’s program is quite varied, with the valley floor as far as Borgo San Dalmazzo rather rural and pleasant, on alternating small roads and cycle paths.

Then we head up the valley towards Limone Piemonte , mainly along a road that’s too busy and a little too industrialized for our liking… But after a refreshing granita in the little ski resort of Limone Piemonte, we attack the ascent to the Col de Tende.

From here, we leave the cars and continue climbing on gravel tracks. We pass the Fort du Col de Tende and, after paying a small entrance fee, tackle the famous Via Del Sale. This is an ancient salt trade route linking the Piedmontese Alps to the Ligurian Sea, which has become a mythical panoramic itinerary for off-road enthusiasts.

It’s relatively late in the day, the bikers have left, and the track is ours … The evening bivouac, though infested with mosquitoes, is a thing of beauty!

Day 9: Col de la Perle to Breil-sur-Roya

We decided this morning not to hang around the camp to enjoy the first few hours on the Via del Sale, before the massive arrival of motorcyclists and 4x4s ☹. The latter, in addition to being noisy and polluting, are above all a hindrance to our progress as they give off a lot of dust (we can’t see a thing) and they’re always trying to overtake us even though they’re not moving much faster than us… In short, our first 2 hours pedaling on the balcony, almost “on” the border, are fantastic!

Over 20 km of Via del Sale, followed by another 20 km of scenic trails with 3 border pass crossings before plummeting (to say the least, as the technical descent led to a nasty fall!) into the Roya valley.

Covered in dust and with our brakes on fire, we arrived in the village of La Brigue, where we took advantage of a refreshment break to look for accommodation in the area. Not so easy to find a “bike-friendly” place, but we end up finding a small hotel in Breil-sur-Roya, 20 km further along our route.

The Nice hinterland and arrival on the Mediterranean (Days 10 to 12)

Day 10: Rest day at Breil-sur-Roya

Isn’t the ultimate pleasure in roaming the world the day of rest? 😛

Sleep in clean sheets, get “pickled”, eat fresh produce, discover a village, take care of your bike too and do your re-approach…. That’s the program for our day off at the Torino-Nice rally in Breil-sur-Roya.

Day 11: Breil-sur-Roya to Cime du Petit Braus

A new D+ record for our calves today ! As is often the case after a day’s rest, we’re in great physical shape, and almost as eager to get back on our bikes as if we’d been neglecting them for days!

The day begins with a 28 km climb to reach the Baisse de Tueis and the many surrounding military forts. This 1700 D+ ascent is gradual, mainly on tracks, crossing forests and then Mediterranean vegetation before reaching the mountain pastures above 1500 m: almost 4h30 which are more pleasure than effort, such is the beauty of the scenery🙂

Then it’s back to almost the starting altitude on a beautiful 30 km asphalt road that crosses the Camp d’Argent ski resort, passes the Col de Turini, and winds its way to Sospel, passing almost under the chapel of Notre-Dame de Menour.

A refreshing gelato in Sospel (almost as good as the Italian ones ;-)), and off you go again!

We headed for the Col de Saint-Jean, followed by the Col de Braus to finish us off… The further we got towards Nice, the more urbanized the countryside became , so for our last bivouac we decided to stop as soon as a natural & wild area presented itself. So it was at the Cime du Petit Braus that we pitched our tent under a pretty umbrella pine and enjoyed an exceptional sunset for our last bivouac on this Turin-Nice rally!

Day 12: Cime du Petit Braus to Nice

This last half-day is a beautiful drive through the hinterland of Nice , with a short detour to the picturesque village of Saint-Agnès, a final climb to the Bausson & Madone passes, and lovely views of the Mediterranean from time to time…

The last few km are inevitably too urban for our liking, but we do enjoy the finish on the iconic Promenade des Anglais…

At that moment, I was proudto have successfully completed the demanding Torino-Nice rally, disappointed that the trip was over, and already looking forward to our big itinerary the following summer!

Frequently asked questions about the Torino-Nice Rally (FAQ)