Laugavegur Trail (Iceland) – My experience of an autonomous trek

What can you expect on the Laugavegur Trail?

Honestly? I wasn’t expecting such an experience. I knew this trek would be beautiful, intense… but not to this extent. The Laugavegur, extended by the route between Skógar and Þórsmörk, literally overwhelmed me. For six days, I felt like I was living in a waking dream, in the heart of a setting in perpetual transformation, as if nature were having fun surprising me at every step, without ever repeating itself.

Within the first few hours, I knew this wasn’ t just going to be a hike. It was much more than that: a visual, sensory and emotional slap in the face. Mountains of unreal colors, lava fields frozen in time, massive, silent glaciers, icy rivers to cross barefoot… and, every day, the feeling of being tiny in the face of immensity.

The best time to trek Laugavegur

With Iceland’s climate, let’s be clear: the choice of dates is pretty limited. The ideal period is from early July to late August. This is the only window when the entire itinerary is passable, huts and campsites are open, and weather conditions are relatively milder – although, of course, this is Iceland.

To give you an idea, I made this trek around July 10. Daytime temperatures fluctuated between 12 and 15°C, while at night the thermometer sometimes hovered around 0°C. Yes, even in midsummer, you can expect to be cold, especially in a tent. So it’s essential to packwarm, appropriate clothing .

Laugavegur trek with your rules (yes, we’re talking about it)

I’ll let you imagine my face when, the day before departure, my period arrived without warning… Suffice it to say that I had a little moment of panic. I was already imagining myself having to manage six days of trekking with used pads at the bottom of my pack, with no really clean or practical solution.

I looked everywhere for information, but couldn’t find anything really reassuring. So if you too are at risk of having your period during this trek, I’ve got good news: you’re saved! The refuges along the Laugavegur allow used sanitary protection (tampons, pads, etc.) to be deposited in their garbage cans, whereas all other waste must be taken with you.

When I discovered this, I honestly wanted to thank all Icelanders for this demonstration of common sense and solidarity. In short, if your period ever comes at a bad time: breathe. It’s manageable, and you’re clearly not the only one going through it.

Where to pitch your tent on the Laugavegur trek?

Spoiler: not just anywhere. Contrary to popular belief, wilderness bivouacs are forbidden along the Laugavegur between Skógar and Landmannalaugar.

The first night, I pitched my tent in the middle of nowhere, delighted to enjoy my little Icelandic solitude. But when I woke up, the intrigued looks of the other hikers quickly tipped me off. Check this out: it’s compulsory to camp in the designated areas around the refuges.

Of course, this comes at a price: it costs around €15 per person per night to pitch your tent. In return, you have access to sanitary facilities, drinking water, sometimes even a sheltered kitchen… and above all, you sleep peacefully and legally.

How to get supplies on the Laugavegur trek?

It’s entirely possible to walk the Laugavegur in total autonomy, taking all your food with you. This is the option I chose, as it offers great freedom to decide when and where to eat. On the other hand, the rucksack is considerably heavier!

Another option is to buy supplies directly from the campsites along the trek. All offer drinks (sodas and low-alcohol beer) and dehydrated Chinese noodles. The choice is very limited, but the advantage is that you don’t have to worry about meals.

Water-wise, there’s nothing to worry about. There’s no need to carry large quantities of water, as there are many streams and rivers along the route. However, we do recommend using a filtered water bottle to avoid any bacteria that might spoil the experience…

Why choose the Skógar → Landmannalaugar route?

Yes, this directionadds a bit of elevation gain, but for me it’s clearly the best choice and I have absolutely no regrets. Here’s why:

• From day one, you’ll be faced with dozens of waterfalls, and believe me, you won’t miss a single drop of their beauty!
• If you have any doubts about your abilities, don’t panic: at the end of Day 2, you can always take a break and catch the bus to make things a little easier.
• As the trek progresses, the colors become more vivid and varied, offering sublime landscapes.
• And to round things off in style, you arrive in Landmannalaugar : after six days’ walking, you can finally enjoy the hot springs and a hot dog in the campsite’s vintage bus. A real treat to round off this memorable adventure!

Topo of the 6-day trek from Skógar to Landmannalaugar

Day 1 – Skógar to Baldvinsskáli

I start the trek after a short night. Why? Not only the excitement of departure, but above all the midnight sun… At this time of year, it only sets for a few minutes, which can easily disrupt the rhythm. But no choice: the bus has just dropped me off in Skógar, and the adventure begins.

Fatigue quickly fades in the face of such beauty. At the foot of the famous Skógafoss, an immense waterfall that has everyone in agreement, one thing is certain: Iceland is incredible.

The trail then follows the Skógá River , taking me past some twenty waterfalls, each more spectacular than the last. The terrain climbs gradually, but the scenery is so impressive that you almost forget the difference in altitude.

After about three hours’ walking, I cross the river by a wooden bridge and decide to stop here for lunch. Gradually, the greenery gives way to a more mineral landscape. I gain altitude, the wind picks up and temperatures drop slightly.

The arrival at Baldvinsskáli is in a much more alpine atmosphere: a perched hut, often windswept, but perfect for a first night of total immersion.

Day 2 – Baldvinsskáli to Þórsmörk (Skagfjörðsskáli / Básar)

The night was cool, and I got my survival blanket out quicker than expected. My back is aching from the weight of the pack, and my legs are already quite stiff… but I know that these sensations will eventually fade, once my body gets used to the pace.

The day begins with an ascent to the Fimmvörðuháls pass, perched 1,019 metres above sea level. Up here, the atmosphere is almost lunar: on one side, the craters still visible from the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010; on the other, the imposing Mýrdalsjökull ice cap. The scenery is raw, powerful and totally timeless.

From the pass, the descent to Þórsmörk begins… and almost never stops. The path gradually plunges down to the valley, crossing vast plateaus – like Morinsheið – before taking a ridge, with a roped-off passage.

Then, little by little, the dark rock gives way to greenery. The contrast is striking: suddenly I’m in a dwarf birch forest, soft and almost magical after the aridity of the high plateau.

A few kilometers further on, I finally reach the Básar refuge (Skagfjörðsskáli), nestled in the heart of the valley. An intense and highly visual stage, with the impression of having crossed several worlds in a single day.

Day 3 – Þórsmörk (Skagfjörðsskáli) to Emstrur (Botnar)

This stage marks the real beginning of the Laugavegur for those starting from Þórsmörk. I gradually leave the greenery of the valley behind me and return to more arid, volcanic landscapes.

The day begins with a ford crossing, before the trail gently rises through the Húsadalur hills, offering superb views of the surrounding glacial tongues. A little effort to cross a pass, and I’m plunged into a succession of black plains, wooden bridges and desert valleys shaped by the elements.

The contrast is striking: the vegetation almost completely disappears. The ground, black and dusty, is occasionally tinged with red or ochre, and the horizon stretches as far as the eye can see. I’m entering the Icelandic Highlands for good.

The Emstrur (Botnar) refuge finally comes into view in the heart of this almost Martian setting, nestled in a small, sheltered valley. Before pitching my tent or taking a rest, I take a 10-15 minute detour to the Markarfljótsgljúfur canyon: a vertiginous gorge carved by a deep-blue river that seems to appear out of nowhere.

Tiredness begins to creep through my body. Despite the cold of the night and the wind shaking the tent from all sides, I fall sound asleep, ready for the rest of the adventure.

Day 4 – Emstrur (Botnar) to Álftavatn

The fourth day begins with a gently ascending trail, before rejoining the track for a few hundred metres. I skirt around Mount Hatfell, an imposing volcanic formation, then reach a small pass between the mountains.

Once across, the landscape opens out onto a vast black desert of ash and lava. The terrain is fairly monotonous and open, but the power of the landscapes more than makes up for this impression of solitude.

As the walk progresses, I come to a ford which I have to cross on foot. The water is icy cold and the current strong, but it’s a good wake-up call! A little further on, another ford appears, this time equipped with a footbridge to facilitate passage. Once these obstacles have been overcome, the trail continues, following the contours of the terrain, between tracks and volcanic valleys.

At Hvanngil, the first campsite appears. It’s still early, so I decide to continue on to Álftavatn, a splendid lake that serves as a stopping-off point. The tents are set up, everyone prepares a meal, some take a dip in the icy lake, while others take refuge in their tents to keep warm.

A peaceful stopover, but where the grandeur of the landscape leaves no doubt: Iceland is as spectacular as ever.

Day 5 – Álftavatn to Hrafntinnusker

After a relatively gentle climb, I find myself in the heart of impressive geothermal formations: fumaroles spew from the earth, bubbling soils quiver beneath my feet, and the paths are covered in sulfur. A true natural spectacle, where the warm hues contrast magnificently with the surrounding volcanic landscape. No doubt about it, I’m in Iceland.

Thearrival at Hrafntinnusker is breathtaking: volcanoes and geothermal springs combine to create an almost surreal setting. The refuge, nestled in this unique environment, is the ideal place to rest and observe these natural wonders. The floor is strewn with obsidian, the shiny black stones renowned for their protective powers.

And believe me, I could have used the protection that night: the thermometer dropped to -5°C. Ill-equipped for this intense cold, I hardly slept at all and decided to pack up my tent at 4 a.m. and set off walking again – the advantage of the midnight sun! A difficult night, but one that made the trek even more unforgettable.

Day 6 – Hrafntinnusker to Landmannalaugar

So it’s dawn when I begin the final leg of this incredible adventure. After a final, short climb, the trail plunges gently towards Landmannalaugar. The terrain becomes easier, but the scenery remains breathtaking.

Along the way, I cross colorful valleys, rivers and even a few hot springs. The volcanic environment totally immerses me, and each step leaves an imprint on my memory. As I approach Landmannalaugar, the multicolored mountains bring this trek to a beautiful close.

The final descent is spectacular: sparkling lakes, lava fields and lunar landscapes follow one another before arriving at the refuge. Here, the reward is well worth the effort : a warm shelter, natural hot springs and brilliantly colored mountains.

A magical place to end this epic trek, with the deep satisfaction of having covered one of Iceland’s most beautiful trails.

Outcome

The trek from Skógar to Landmannalaugar lived up to my dreams: grandiose, intense and absolutely unforgettable. It offered me incredible landscapes, but above all an immense sense of pride in having taken up this sporting challenge.

That first trek made me want to set off again, to discover new horizons on foot. Since then, I’ve completed the Grande Traversée du Vercors – which gave rise to my book Cabanes libres du Vercors – as well as the West Highland Way in Scotland last autumn.

For me, walking is the best way to discover a country: you soak up every landscape, get lost, take your time, meet people and experience real emotions.

If you’d like to find out more about these treks or exchange tips, I’d be delighted to hear from you on Instagram @viréessauvages or on my website vireessauvages.com.